Sunday, November 15, 2009

The Inaugural Sustainable Food Center Chef Series : La Condesa

As much as I love food, I was hesitant to pay $150 for a 7 course meal... But when all the profits go to the Sustainable Food Center of Austin, and it involves some of the best Chefs, I couldn't say no.

Sunday.Nov.8. 2009
I was so proud of  myself for being on-time as I walked through the door at 6 p.m. sharp into the packed lobby at La Condesa. We were immediately handed a glass of champagne with apples and greeted by the hostess who took us to our table.

As we were served each course, each Chef would explain their dish and the local farms that provided the meats, fish, and produce to a dining room full of mouths watering.  

And so, the marathon of scrumptiousness began:

Jesse Griffiths Dai Due -Supper Club-

Charcuterie plate, dried jalapeno goose sausage, pecan and fig terrine, rabbit  rillettes, olive oil, liverwurst served with Independence Brewing Company Austin Ale.

What a great way to open the meal. The terrine reminded me of Easter at my grandma's house...Except hers had olives, garlic, and all kinds of Mexican goodness. Chef Griffiths' was fantastic with the mix of the sweet figs and crunchiness of the pecan.


Tyson Cole Uchi
Kai jiru, maine mussels, pedernales farms tomato water, celery, bluebonnet farms basil served with Fritz Haag Estate, Dry Riesling 2006

Tyson Cole + food within the same sentence= rock my face off. I can honeslty say this was the first "tomato water" I've ever had and it was a great first experience. The potent flavor of the mussels was toned down by the fresh celery and basil.  Who needs a spoon when you can sip your meal, right?


Rene Ortiz La Condesa
Roberto san miguel gulf shrimp, tamarind, lime and chile, texas crab salad, hands of the earth red amaranth with malpeque oysters, urban roots red chiles, local lime dressing with M Borealis, Montinore Estate, Oregon 2008.

It's no secret- I LOVE the food this magic man makes, but he outdid himself on this particular dish. Not only can he make your taste buds dance with cochinita pibil, he can surprise the hell out of them with a simple amaranth leaf.  He said he was trying to cook out of the box, wihtin his resutaurant and deliver something different (or something along those lines, I was too busy scarfing down my food to listen carefully). The tamarind, the amaranth, the sharp spiciness on the oyster, all very Thai and DELICIOUS. My favorite dish of the night. PERIOD.


Todd Duplechan TRIO
texas quail, green apple, arepas, green mole with Va Piano Signature Series, Syrah, 2007

You gotta love the guy for trying, but I didn't eat an arepa, or mole with the charred quail... No, make that pieces of coal on my plate on top of cornmeal goo and pesto. Very nicely plated, but pretty disappointing. I was very surprised because I'm typically a TRIO fan... an off night maybe?


Shawn Cirkiel Parkside
Loncito's lamb three ways, pardina lentils, butternut squash mostarda, spice with Nadia, Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Barbara Highlands, 2004

So, when Chef Cirkiel got up to present his dish, and say how happy he was to be a part of this, and the importance of sustainability, etc etc... my food got cold. His lamb three ways was mediocre. I expected the meat to fall off the bone and the lentils to play around with the butternut squash... or just to have more presence I guess, but no. Sad.

But then came dessert.....

Laura Sawicki La Condesa
Texas olive oil ranch olife oil cake, poached farwell gala apple, salted candied pine nuts, texas ice milk with Fine Calvados Manhattan, cinnamon apple vermouth 

Think of the most delicious poundcake you've ever had. Got it? Now magnify the flavor times 1000...and then imagine it's olive oil poundcake, and then imagine it's topped with ice cream like you've never tasted before...cause you can't make out the flavor... definitely not vanilla, but then... what is it? Perfection, that's what.
I guess this cake doesn't even fit into the poundcake category--- it deserves its own.
She toys with your mouth--- fruitiness of olive oil, the apples, and the simple, yet amazing ice cream...mmmmmmmm!
I'm in love with this woman's sweets. I will soon write a love letter to her.

This was an amazing experience, perfect venue, great people, a sampling of the work of the masterminds that rule the kitchens in Austin... Definitely worth $150.
I hear there is another one coming in the Spring. I'm in!

http://www.sustainablefoodcenter.org/

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